To Do Peru

tourism, nature, food, news, culture
Aug 17

Machiguenga knowledge.

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Machuiguenga and Engblom-Gallo families

On our second day at InkaTerra Reserva Amazonica we visited a family of  Machiguenga natives (Day 1 with birdwatching and Caimans here).  They are a bit out of place here as the Machiguengas live in the Manu headwaters and the upper Urubamba river.  But Noah and his family has made it below Puerto Maldonado for me unknown reasons.  They hardly live in their traditional ways today - but Noah from lower the Manu area has studied tourism and  shows Machiguenga traditiions with pride. The reality for many Machiguengas today is losing their traditions and make a living in the logging industry, Camisea gas project or  gold mining. Next will be oil prospect as the Amarakaeri Communal reserve has been run through with seismic mapping tests just recently by Hunt Oil.
The social results are disastrous. The culture is shattered with alcoholism and prostitution just to mention a few of the problems. Tourism seems like a much better alternative in this sense, although it hardly involves as large an income and to relatively few people in the short term. Some of my readers may recall my blogposts on our intent to run trips to the Amarakaeri communal reserve.

Anyway, this was a nice contrast to my previous encounters with Machiguenga. I visited the Machiguenga Lodge in Manu National Park a few years ago, which is run by the Machiguengas within the park. We had relatively little interaction to learn about their ways, but I did organize an evening where we could ask questions to the local family in charge of the lodge, which was very rewarding. But the gift shop had rudimentary handicrafts like pottery and baskets, and some necklaces made of  ocelot hides and jaguar teeth - which of course would be illegal to take outside the country. Most of the stuff was impossible to sell.

To me it was refreshing to see that Noah and his family had somewhat more customized items that still had a genuine touch to them but less damaging to the environment and simply nicer.

All in all my family enjoyed an afternoon here participating in face paintings, dances, bow and arrow shooting and some fun games.

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Beat it Luciana

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Machiguenga dance and Luciana drumming


We also learnt that traditionally burials were in the open under a Kapok tree bundled in textiles. Eventually the vultures would get to the bodies, although the heart would be saved for the king vulture, who would carry it to the heaven, where also the hearts of all other animals were taken. Eventually, all will get some celestial body to house the heart. This way there will be plenty of game/food for the dead.

Finally we learnt that Machiguengas like many other people in the rainforest are completely dependent on Yucca. Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner contains Yucca….and even the drink (masato). We declined to try the Masato – just to be on the safe side. Chewed and spitted out Yucca to later be fermented does not sound like it would pass the hygiene controls of the Western world – but I may be wrong.

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Machiguenga drummer girl Luciana

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Gunnar Engblom master archery - NOT!

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Gunnar Engblom making fire - NOT

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InkaTerra Birdguide Jesus and Anahi

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Anahi finding a Machiguenga friend

Jul 25

Let’s celebrate Independence Day with a delightful Ceviche in our tables!

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July 28th, 1821 was proclaimed our Independence, after 189 years, what is the best way to celebrate our National Day?

We think that having a great Ceviche dish to share with the whole family and our friends is one of the best ways to do it!

Go to the fish market front the ocean and choose the right fish to make it, and then buy green lemon, onion, sweet potatoes, corn, and lettuce and red chilly.

But to make it easier for you we share this adventure with Nicholas Gill who explains how and where get a wonderful Ceviche in Lima.

Taste it!!

 


How to Eat Ceviche in Lima

How To: Grab a Cusqueña and get comfortable. As Nicholas Gill explains, a trip to a Peruvian cevichería can be an all-day immersion in good conversation and raw seafood.

The situation: It’s Sunday, and after a night out in Lima, Peru, you’ve found yourself in a cevichería. It’s more, you discover, than a mere place to order ceviche. It’s a cultural institution where lime juice abounds, and the events and misadventures from the previous night are discussed, reenacted and celebrated. Here’s your primer.

When to go: While most cevicherías are open daily, Sunday is traditionally their busiest day and visiting one is a weekly ritual for many Limeños. After partying until dawn the night before in Lima’s discos, you might rest for a few hours but still feel like the bottom of your shoe. The act of going to a cevichería is something that can both refresh and revive; a combination of hair of the dog and raw seafood. The experience begins in the late morning and typically lasts all day; the overindulgence may, on a good day, eclipse that of the night before.

The basics: Early, crude forms of ceviche began to appear in pre-Colombian times in the coastal civilizations of South America where fish was “cooked” with a fruit called tumbo. Later the Incas ate salted fish marinated in chicha, a fermented corn drink, and when the Spanish arrived, they added limes and onions to the mix.

 

Jul 20

New Royal Sicán tomb discovered in Bosque de Pomac - Lambayeque

Royal_tomb_discovered

Sican (Moon’s House) civilization developed in the north Peruvian coast, they dominated the Motupe, Leche, Lambayeque and Zaña Valley from    750 - 1375 AC. Later they were occupied by the Chimu Empire until 1470 AC.

Izumi Shimada investigated “Huaca Loro”,  one of the most impressive Sican Pyramid in Batan Grande, there, he found an extraordinary Royal Tomb with the Royal Family remains that were covered with many jewelries, masks, potteries, textiles, moreover, he discovered many human sacrifices.

Now, another Royal Tomb was found in “Las Ventanas” Pyramid, which will give a lot of information about Sican metallurgy techniques, social, religion and economy patterns.

Read the full article here

New royal Sicán tomb discovered in Bosque de Pomac

July 18, 2010

 

The Pomac Forest, first home of the Sicán civilisation, has revealed another ancient secret. Under Las Ventanas, one of several adobe pyramids that poke out above the dry forest’s trees, one of the most ancient tombs of the elite has been discovered.

By Wilfred Sandoval, Photos by Richard Hirano

In 1991 the Ministry of Agriculture ordered the construction of a levee along the edge of the river La Lechethat runs through the heart of the natural and archaeological reserve in order to help alleviate the damage done by the regularly overflowing river. More than once have heavy rains and the river bursting its banks have destroyed large portions of the Sicán-era pyramids. The levee, it was discovered afterwards, turned out to have been built in an area where one of the lower platforms of pyramid Las Ventanas extended out to.

It is here, in this section of the pyramid now damaged by both man and nature, that researchers from the Sicán Museum have made one of the most surprising discoveries.

 

 

Jul 15

When did you last spend 10 bucks wisely? Save the forest - give these kids a sustainable future. - Birdwatching in Peru

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Procrastination and adult ADD


Man! There are hundreds of causes I have meant to donate to, but things have drawn out and in the end something else have come up. I have done my share of money raising for good causes, but to actually send off a check somehow have seemed a much larger obstacle. I have this great excuse for my faulties as being one of those kids with ADHD 40 years ago, who simply never got diagnosed...and only recently become aware that there is a reason why I procrastinate, why I have a totally disordered desk, why I do 1000 things at the same time, why I have very short concentration span, unless I am really interested in the subject...and why I sometimes totally put my foot in my mouth saying things I later regret. So yes, the excuse for procrastination will always be adult ADD...In spite of all this.....I DID IT!!!!

Rain forest partnership is doing great work raising funds for a communiy project in the Pampa Hermosa area in Central Peru.

Jul 14

In Peru, Stones, Bones, and for the Main Course …

Guinea pig is realy a rat without a tail....Would you eat it?

I had it  put  on  reserve, and now was time to watch the cooking process. Karlita’s recipe involved boiling the (defurred) carcass then sinking it into a frying pan full of oil. It was served with homemade French fries and a big salad. The verdict? Um, the French fries and salad were excellent.

Guinea pig, fries and salad at Pollería Karlita in Leymebamba.Seth Kugel for The New York Times Guinea pig, fries and salad at Pollería Karlita in Leymebamba.

The cuy meat itself was fine – you will not be surprised to hear that it tasted like gamey chicken. The problem was, I practically had to perform an autopsy, ripping off limbs to find small pockets of meat.

At that point, for once in the week, I regretted the lack of moral support. So let me amend what I wrote earlier: ruins and waterfalls you can see on your own. For guinea pig dinners, join a tour group.

Read the full article here ....

Jul 14

Lima: Colonial house still inhabited by Spanish family since the foundation of Lima.

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Casa Aliaga is the name of this historic house that was conferred by Francisco Pizarro to his faithful servant Geronimo de Aliaga, as he supported Pizarro during the difficult exploration to the Andes.

Since 1535 this house has been inhabited by descendants of Geronimo de Aliaga, it is the most emblematic Colonial style house in the City of Lima – The City of Kings- standing out for its unique architecture and its impressive Colonial furniture that shows the family’s wealth and the economic boom in the middle of the 19th century.

To visit the Casa Aliaga is essential for those who enjoy colonial architecture, antiques, and history.

See some pictures on the following link

Jul 13

US Ambassador announces US $68,000 for heritage conservation of Chavin de Huantar

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Chavin de Huantar, ancient archaeological site (700 BC - 100 AC) is one of the most impressive places in Peru since it was found by the Peruvian archaeologist Julio C. Tello in the 1940´s.

Julio Tello, and many others archaeologist such as Luis Lumbreras and Richard Burger had studied this important culture and its impressive iconography in order to understand the ancient religion, social organization and economic production as it was the earliest precedent for the Inca Civilization.

Chavin de Huantar needs programs of restoration and conservation since its temples and squares have been destroy by rain and floods.

 

Read the full news about the US contribution here

The US Ambassador in Peru, Michael McKinley, announced that two subsidies worth more than US $99,000 have been approved, and will be destined to the conservation of cultural heritage in Peru.

The funds come from The Ambassador Fund 2010, and US $68,000 will be destined to the preservation of Chavin de Huantar ruins, in Ancash region.

Also, US $31,000 will be destined to the restoration of 14 colonial paintings from the Jesus Society Church in Arequipa.

 

 

Jul 12

Archaeology - Moche Route and Lady of Cao

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Lady of Cao is one of the most important discoveries in the Peruvian Archaeology, located in Chicama Valley - Trujillo City.

She was a powerful governor in the ancient Moche Society (0-600 years AD), who was buried with incredible wealth in textiles, potteries and jewelries.

Her mausoleum was all decorated with impressive Moche iconography. According to the examinations she died very young; 25 years old when she was giving birth.

Lady of Cao´s mummy is exhibited in the modern museum of Cao located in Magdalena de Cao town, that will be promote by the Wise Foundation and local municipalities around the world as part of the Moche Route.

 

You can read the full news in this post (news)

Northern Peru is an area with a past full of mystery and splendor. The astonishing archaeological remains of Mochica and Chimu cultures are a sample of those days, and they attract thousands of tourists from all over the world each year. El Brujo, Huaca Rajada, the Temples of the Sun and of the Moon, and Sicán are the most important archaeological attractions of the Moche Route, a tourist circuit enriched with beautiful beaches and cultural and gastronomic attractions from the regions of Lambayeque and La Libertad.

Precisely to promote the development of this route the project Archaeological Tourism Moche Route at Cao Museum – El Brujo Archaeological Site, began last July 17. The Wiese Foundation will carry out this project benefitting traders and small entrepreneurs from the villages of Pítipo, Sipán-Huaca Rajada (Lambayeque), Moche and Magdalena of Cao (la Libertad). This project won the contest of the Articulando MyPerú program, financed by the Multilateral Investment Fund of the Inter-American Development Bank (IDB), and which the Wiese Foundation presented along with the Regional Government of Lambayeque in December 2008.

 

Jul 10

Living in Peru » Travel : Hot nightlife, restaurants and bars in Cusco, Peru

Nightlife in Cusco offers to visitors innovative restaurants and contemporary bars, so, not only the archaeological sights are the best places to enjoy, such this Bar "Pisquerito" (Peruvian National grape’s brandy) a place that you shouldn’t miss in your trip to Cusco.

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Pisco
The next stop is must-visit. At some point you must pass by the Pisquerito, where Hans Hilburg will receive you at the bar. He was Astrid y Gaston’s bartender for years until he decided to start this original bar in an old house he shares with La Mammacha and the café Mundo Hemp.

 The cocktail bar at Pisquerito stands out for the research there is behind each of their creative drinks. All are, of course, pisco based, but not with just any pisco. Only eight brands from handcrafted limited production pisco bodegas are served here. An example of this is La Chola Picarona, which brings together a combination of pisco acholado with strawberries, Izcucacha mints, strawberry liqueur and ayrampo macerate, which are cactus seeds that grow in the heights of Cusco. The ¡Candela! is a fine green must is mixed with yellow pepper cream, tangerine and lime juice.

 

 

Full article here

Jul 9

Exotic Peruvian Fruit Works out for women beauty and hormones regulation

Aguaje-arriba
Aguaje Mauritia flexuosa  is a popular fruit in the Peruvian jungle, in areas such as Iquitos and Ucayali. It contains a high levels of vitamin A, B,C and it is more nutritious than carrots or avocado.

Furthermore, Aguaje has Phytoestrogen which helps to model female figure, and that is why allegedly  “charapas” (ladies from the jungle) are known for their exuberance.

This wonderful exotic Peruvian fruit is also claimed good for hormone regulations to prevent menopause symptoms, osteoporosis, malnourished children and others.


Unfortunately, the population of Iquitos is using Aguaje so much that ecologists fear un-controlled chopping down the palm trees to reach the fruit can put a strain on forest.


A  management program is needed for such amazing nutritional fruit to keep people, the forest conservancy and the economy of the region healthy.


To listen the full NPR interview from Iquitos see here.

About Gunnar Engblom

Who is Gunnar?

Birder, biologist, runner, former punkrock sing/song-writer in Guran Guran, daddy, husband and owner, manager and guide of Kolibri Expeditions based in Lima, Peru, who is getting increasingly more and more interested in Social Media - that is me in a nutshell.
I always believed that birding tourism can make a difference to local communities and inspire to protect the habitat where threatened species are, if the same community receives some tangible benefit. Social Media helps achieving these goals as I relate to project like these in my blogging, as well as Twitter and Facebook activity.


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