Machuiguenga and Engblom-Gallo families
On our second day at InkaTerra Reserva Amazonica we visited a family of Machiguenga natives (Day 1 with birdwatching and Caimans here). They are a bit out of place here as the Machiguengas live in the Manu headwaters and the upper Urubamba river. But Noah and his family has made it below Puerto Maldonado for me unknown reasons. They hardly live in their traditional ways today - but Noah from lower the Manu area has studied tourism and shows Machiguenga traditiions with pride. The reality for many Machiguengas today is losing their traditions and make a living in the logging industry, Camisea gas project or gold mining. Next will be oil prospect as the Amarakaeri Communal reserve has been run through with seismic mapping tests just recently by Hunt Oil.
The social results are disastrous. The culture is shattered with alcoholism and prostitution just to mention a few of the problems. Tourism seems like a much better alternative in this sense, although it hardly involves as large an income and to relatively few people in the short term. Some of my readers may recall my blogposts on our intent to run trips to the Amarakaeri communal reserve.
Anyway, this was a nice contrast to my previous encounters with Machiguenga. I visited the Machiguenga Lodge in Manu National Park a few years ago, which is run by the Machiguengas within the park. We had relatively little interaction to learn about their ways, but I did organize an evening where we could ask questions to the local family in charge of the lodge, which was very rewarding. But the gift shop had rudimentary handicrafts like pottery and baskets, and some necklaces made of ocelot hides and jaguar teeth - which of course would be illegal to take outside the country. Most of the stuff was impossible to sell.
To me it was refreshing to see that Noah and his family had somewhat more customized items that still had a genuine touch to them but less damaging to the environment and simply nicer.
All in all my family enjoyed an afternoon here participating in face paintings, dances, bow and arrow shooting and some fun games.
Beat it Luciana
Machiguenga dance and Luciana drumming
We also learnt that traditionally burials were in the open under a Kapok tree bundled in textiles. Eventually the vultures would get to the bodies, although the heart would be saved for the king vulture, who would carry it to the heaven, where also the hearts of all other animals were taken. Eventually, all will get some celestial body to house the heart. This way there will be plenty of game/food for the dead.
Finally we learnt that Machiguengas like many other people in the rainforest are completely dependent on Yucca. Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner contains Yucca….and even the drink (masato). We declined to try the Masato – just to be on the safe side. Chewed and spitted out Yucca to later be fermented does not sound like it would pass the hygiene controls of the Western world – but I may be wrong.
Machiguenga drummer girl Luciana
Gunnar Engblom master archery - NOT!
Gunnar Engblom making fire - NOT
InkaTerra Birdguide Jesus and Anahi
Anahi finding a Machiguenga friend